More Carriacou high points -- mostly about food. This is the kind of place where there's not a lot of imported stuff. If you had a garden and a fisherman in the family, you'd do a lot better than than the optimistic white cruiser lady who wanders from store to store with her list in hand. There's several small grocery stores, and they all seem to carry liquor, some nasty wine, beer, soap, powdered milk, pickled pig bits, chainsaw chicken, and salt fish, but very often I go in with a list, and come out with a hunk of pale yellow cheese that's just labelled "cheese." Vegetables and fruit are generally sold elsewhere -- on the street, at the market, from cars -- you just have to find it. So imagine our delight at finding real pizza at the Turtle Dove in Tyrell Bay. It's really, really good. We should know, we ate it three days running. Callalloo and bacon is my favourite.
More food (no laundry stories - I've given up on laundry): Patti's Deli in Hillsborough has been open for about two months. What a treat - sour cream, prosciutto, real potato chips! Christine and Hilda (see below for photos) and various sisters and sisters-in-law run the deli in the same place that Christine's grandmother Patti ran a bakery. They've done lovely renovations, and it's so pleasant to visit and shoot the breeze and pick up special bits and pieces that you think you deserve. Baked stuff, and all sorts of nifty delicacies. And there's a great bakery across from the Shell station in behind a house where you get long soft baguettes (you only get real French bread in the French islands) that invariably bend themselves into squashy sections in your shopping bag by the time you get off the bus.
We also bought a little boat in Carriacou.
We'd been having discussions about the drawbacks of the inflatable and even though I've been driving it a lot more lately, I've maintained my fear and loathing of the motor. As if to prove my point, one morning after the regatta was over, I flipped the dinghy. It started in gear with the choke out and zoomed briefly and noisily along the side of ND until it reached the end of the painter and flipped over, effectively shutting down the motor. Not the best way to start a day. There was no damage to either boat or operator, but all the contents of the dinghy, including me, were flung emphatically and speedily overboard. Neighbours rounded up the stuff that was floating away while I got back on board and we all managed to turn the damn thing over again. Randy spent the rest of the morning overhauling the motor. We recommend this gunk called Corrosion X -- very helpful in these situations. David helped us fish up all the dinghy bits from the bottom, 17 feet down.
The very next day, Randy discovered this beautiful ten and a half foot sailing/rowing dinghy upside down on the beach in Carriacou. We asked at the nearest beach bar, and Scraper, the proprietor and well-known local Calypso singer, said "Sure, it's for sale." Obviously, it was meant to be. After vigorous negotiations over the price and the value of the boat and its accoutrements, we agreed on a price that was a lot lower than the one he first suggested. Once we'd done the handshake and gone up to his bar to buy him a drink, he said that he was selling the boat for a lady who now lived in Barbados, and she wanted him to donate the money to the local church. That's nice, eh?
Now we're the proud owners of a really beautiful antique that needs a great deal of TLC and cosmetic upgrades. Leaks, doesn't it? I think I pulled a muscle bailing before we could haul it up on the foredeck. It came with two great sails, and Scraper's son has gone off to hunt up the mast, the rudder, the daggerboard and the seats, and we'll sort out getting them shipped from Carriacou to Grenada.
It's such a pretty little boat -- once Carnival is over, we'll get it tidied up and in the water, and put our Lunenburg oars to good use, and I'll really learn to sail. I say we deflate the damn rubber dinghy and haul the evil motor up and store it someplace where the sun don't shine.
Next post - Grenada Carnival photos!
More food (no laundry stories - I've given up on laundry): Patti's Deli in Hillsborough has been open for about two months. What a treat - sour cream, prosciutto, real potato chips! Christine and Hilda (see below for photos) and various sisters and sisters-in-law run the deli in the same place that Christine's grandmother Patti ran a bakery. They've done lovely renovations, and it's so pleasant to visit and shoot the breeze and pick up special bits and pieces that you think you deserve. Baked stuff, and all sorts of nifty delicacies. And there's a great bakery across from the Shell station in behind a house where you get long soft baguettes (you only get real French bread in the French islands) that invariably bend themselves into squashy sections in your shopping bag by the time you get off the bus.
We also bought a little boat in Carriacou.
We'd been having discussions about the drawbacks of the inflatable and even though I've been driving it a lot more lately, I've maintained my fear and loathing of the motor. As if to prove my point, one morning after the regatta was over, I flipped the dinghy. It started in gear with the choke out and zoomed briefly and noisily along the side of ND until it reached the end of the painter and flipped over, effectively shutting down the motor. Not the best way to start a day. There was no damage to either boat or operator, but all the contents of the dinghy, including me, were flung emphatically and speedily overboard. Neighbours rounded up the stuff that was floating away while I got back on board and we all managed to turn the damn thing over again. Randy spent the rest of the morning overhauling the motor. We recommend this gunk called Corrosion X -- very helpful in these situations. David helped us fish up all the dinghy bits from the bottom, 17 feet down.
The very next day, Randy discovered this beautiful ten and a half foot sailing/rowing dinghy upside down on the beach in Carriacou. We asked at the nearest beach bar, and Scraper, the proprietor and well-known local Calypso singer, said "Sure, it's for sale." Obviously, it was meant to be. After vigorous negotiations over the price and the value of the boat and its accoutrements, we agreed on a price that was a lot lower than the one he first suggested. Once we'd done the handshake and gone up to his bar to buy him a drink, he said that he was selling the boat for a lady who now lived in Barbados, and she wanted him to donate the money to the local church. That's nice, eh?
Now we're the proud owners of a really beautiful antique that needs a great deal of TLC and cosmetic upgrades. Leaks, doesn't it? I think I pulled a muscle bailing before we could haul it up on the foredeck. It came with two great sails, and Scraper's son has gone off to hunt up the mast, the rudder, the daggerboard and the seats, and we'll sort out getting them shipped from Carriacou to Grenada.
It's such a pretty little boat -- once Carnival is over, we'll get it tidied up and in the water, and put our Lunenburg oars to good use, and I'll really learn to sail. I say we deflate the damn rubber dinghy and haul the evil motor up and store it someplace where the sun don't shine.
Next post - Grenada Carnival photos!
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