Rainy day in Maho Bay, which is okay, really. We're collecting minor amounts of water, and the boat is clean (outside) and salt-free. Randy noted it would be more useful if it was raining propane, cause we're almost out. Propane and laundry are edging their way to the top of the list of things we can no longer ignore. It's great to have four changes of sheets for the bunk, but storing three sets of king-sized sheets waiting for laundering is a challenge, and the idea of hauling and paying for cleaning of same is depressing. And that's without taking into consideration the growing pile of salty shorts and tshirts.

Too much information, I know. We contemplated doing laundry in Cruz Bay, which would have involved a long dinghy ride, and trundling the laundry up the hill in the cart, but we decided, nah, another day. Good thing, cause we heard that the water was turned off in Cruz Bay all morning. But it will be an epic laundry day when we finally do it. Special edition of the blog to come. (Winter-weary people will think this is sick, but I have daydreams of my washing machine, and fond thoughts of standing in my kitchen, loading the dishwasher, or filling the sink with hot, soapy water....)

Maho Bay is really lovely, flat water and great breeze. Christmas Cove was also very beautiful, but the constant wakes from the ferries running through Current Cut got very tedious. Some days I only lost the sea-sick feeling when I was swimming. Very good snorkelling at Christmas Cove - fish I haven't seen for ages - big angels, big parrotfish, and a 3 foot filefish that completely changed colour when Michelle and I followed him around a rock. Free moorings in Christmas Cove - that was nice too.

Maho Bay has an eco-resort with tent-like cabins perched on the hill. Sort of like boating life, ashore, and more expensive. Very pretty bay though, with a couple of long beaches and some snorkelling, although the visibility wasn't great. I did see a barracuda, and on my way out of his territory, I watched two fat squid. They are so from another planet.

Since then, we've made leisurely tracks back to Christmas Cove and Rendezvous Bay and Charlotte Amalie. Found a decent anchoring spot in Crown Bay and, yup, did the laundry. Can you imagine paying $9 for a wash? In a thumping big machine, it must be said, but there's no room for the niceties of "sorting." You can load up two sets of sheets and a lot of clothes, and I imagine if you did it often enough, all your laundry would end up the same grotty shade of gray. We're nearly there....

Randy went to the propane place while I did laundry, and we also topped up with water at the Crown Bay Marina (all of this contributes hugely to the cruisers' sense of ease and comfort). He dropped me off on the fuel dock one day to go and get groceries, and the pleasant ponytailed American lady informed me that that wasn't allowed. It was a "Secure Area." There's a sign posted with the current level of "alert." Sometimes we are reminded that we are in the US of A, but usually it's pleasant reminders, like polite and friendly people, and garbage receptacles, and good docks, and nice groceries. But also KMart. Which is okay.

After a particularly poor week of constant queasiness, casting around for anything that might help, I stopped drinking coffee. One cup in the morning was all, but I thought I'd go back to tea. I am a new woman. Who knew? (actually, my daughter said "duh" and she's got a point.)

Plans are to head to the Spanish Virgins when the wind is favourable. We stopped there briefly in 2006, so we're looking forward to exploring.

See below for new photos.